How
to Pass the MOT
PASS
THE MOT!
Below is a graphic showing the comparative frequency of failure
for the various MOT Test items.

Whether
or not you are a good DIY car mechanic there are some things you
can do to improve the chance that your car will pass the MOT first
time. Here are a few tips:
Washers, wipers and windscreen
Make sure the washers have water in them and that they work properly
– this is an MOT item. Look at your wiper blades to see
if the surface which wipes the screen is not cracked, broken or
damaged in any way. Has the windscreen got any large cracks in
it. If it has then that could be a failure depending on how extensive
they are and where they appear on the screen – and remember,
many insurance policies allow windscreen replacement without affecting
the policy.
Wheels and tyres
If you have ‘alloy’ wheels with the wheel nuts exposed,
make sure that none are missing. If the wheel rim has been seriously
damaged that too could be a failure. Also, check the valve to
make sure that it has not been damaged or is misaligned. Although
you do not have to remove the hub caps for the Test, and the Tester
won’t do so if they remain on the vehicle, you will have
a better examination of the vehicle if you do remove them, although
if any wheel nuts are missing a failure will result.
Checking the tyres is also important. As far as the tyres themselves
are concerned the requirements regarding the type of tyre, its
structure and which type of tyre is acceptable or not on the fronts
or rears, that is quite technical and would require expert knowledge.
However,
the tyre condition can be visually checked. Has the tyre wall
been damaged? Are there any serious cuts or damage on the tread?
And you can check the wear by seeing if it has extended beyond
the so called ‘wear bars’ within the tread. If they
are smooth across the tread then there will be less than the acceptable
1.6mm of tread required.
The
spare tyre is not checked as part of the MOT. Obviously, if the
'spare' tyre is actually fitted to the vehicle, then it will be
checked in the normal way. 'Temporary Use' spare tyres will fail
the MOT if fitted at the time of the MOT Test. Further
information about tyres.
Lights, indicators and hazards
Very obviously, check all the lights and indicators are working
and replace any failed bulbs. Make sure the hazards working too.
Either use a mirror placed behind the car, or get someone to stand
behind the car while you operate the brakes, hazard lights, fog
light and indicators. The number plate light is also part of the
MOT, although the reversing light is not.
General
Although it isn’t necessary to present a cleaned and polished
vehicle for an MOT, if the underside, or items requiring inspection
in the engine compartment is really dirty and covered in oil,
then the Tester can refuse to inspect it and you will have made
an unnecessary journey. Also, if you are taking a small van or
truck for MOT, if there is a large load on board that too may
have to be removed for the MOT. The same applies to items in the
boot; do not present the car for Test with the boot crammed full.
The Tester may have to look into the boot to examine the rear
suspension mounting and will need to be able to see them to complete
the MOT.
Have a look at the seat belts. Do they properly engage? Is the
belt frayed or cut? That too could result in a failure.
Damaged bodywork can also cause an MOT failure if it is likely
to result in damage or injury to other road users, including pedestrians
– so make sure that there are no nasty jagged exposed edges.
Is there a smell of petrol? Do not present your car for an
MOT Test with a fuel leak. Any fuel leak at all will result
in an immediate failure with no other items being examined because
of the serious potential hazard during the MOT Test.
Oh, and finally, you may need the vehicle registration documents
as some MOT Tested items are checked in a way which could depend
on when the vehicle was first registered. If your vehicle falls
across one of these date breaks, and the Tester doesn’t
have the documentation to check, you may find you will be turned
away until you have the correct paper work which can be checked.
Carrying out Repairs for the MOT
Pitfalls
There are inevitably some pitfalls facing even a skilled
DIY motor mechanic when it comes to repairing MOT failures, which
largely break down into the four areas of
Brakes
Steering
Emissions
Welding of excessively corroded areas.
So let’s look at these in turn:
Brakes
There are a number of reasons that a vehicle can fail the MOT
on brakes. There may be a brake fluid leak, the brakes may have
an imbalance causing the vehicle to veer to one side or the other
during braking. The efficiency of the brakes may be inadequate
for the type of vehicle, flexible or metal brake pipes may be
defective, or some other mechanical element in the braking system
could be worn excessively.
A
'weeping' slave cylinder. This is potentially dangerous, but
the MOT Test would not discover this as the Tester is not
allowed to dismantle any component.
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As
has been noted elsewhere, the MOT can not provide a comprehensive
examination of the brakes. During an MOT Test the Tester is not
allowed to dismantle components – and it is quite possible
for there to be a latent defect within the brakes which would
merit a failure but which the Tester cannot detect during the
MOT and isn’t flagged up by the braking performance –
slightly leaking brake cylinders within the system is just one
example.
However there are a number of fairly straightforward jobs which
can be carried out by an experienced DIY mechanic. Changing brake
shoes or pads for example.
The problem here is that after the repair the DIY motorist cannot
check the brakes in the same way as the Testing Station –
with the use of a roller brake test machine.
The roller brake testing equipment not only measures braking efficiency
it also accurately measures brake imbalance as a percentage.
So following that hard weekend of car repairing, the result of
the brake re-Test could be a failure due to an unexpected fault
detected by the brake test equipment, which may not necessarily
show up when the vehicle is driven. And don’t forget, a
braking imbalance which might feel only very slight on a dry road,
could be disastrous in the wet.
Steering
Provided it is relatively simple, like changing track rod ends
or the like, then there’s no reason why the ‘home
repairer’ should not carry out straightforward repairs following
an MOT failure. However there is another consideration –
without accurate tracking equipment, should the tracking not be
correct when the defective components have been replaced, then
accelerated tyre wear will result – this may not be evident
until considerable wear has resulted – so such a repair
could be a false economy.
Emissions
Here the DIY mechanic could face problems – especially on
more modern vehicles. Most emission problems will need sophisticated
diagnostic equipment to discover what the problem is before it
can be rectified – and even then, without the gas analysis
equipment used in Testing Stations it would be impossible to be
sure that the problem has been solved. However, any reasonable
sized non-MOT garage would probably have this equipment. This
is an area which the amateur would best be advised to steer clear
of.
Welding
Welding is less likely to be tackled by a DIY mechanic, but can
have pitfalls if it is done by a repair garage which is not also
aware of the MOT specifications for welding repair. The technical
requirements of VOSA (the government agency which administrates
the MOT) regarding what can be repaired by welding and what can’t,
as well as the way in which the welded repair is done, are quite
precise – and non-MOT garages do not always have this knowledge.
They also tend to cover their work in thick underseal which obscures
the weld so the Tester is unable to examine the repair properly.
For these reasons it is always better to have a Testing Station
carry out welding work, or if not then ensure the person doing
the work does not cover it in underseal until after the Test,
or if after a failure, the re-Test has been done.
The
MOT and DIY car repairs
At MOT Testing, every year we update our ‘Car
Owners Guide to the MOT' poster. This gives motorists a better
insight as to what is involved in the MOT Test so they can carry
out some simple rudimentary measures before submitting their vehicles
for MOT. Like topping up the washers, inspecting the wipers and
checking the windscreen for cracks to provide just a few simple
examples.
But, in spite of the preceeding advice, another interesting issue
which has recently come up is the advisability of motorists carrying
out their own DIY repairs following MOT failure – is it
a good idea? Can motorists really save money carrying out their
own repairs, or having them carried out by a friendly ‘bloke
down the road’?
What are the pitfalls if any, and are there some jobs which are
inevitably beyond the average DIY repairer which the amateur should
avoid getting involved in, and if so why?
It was only a few decades ago that DIY car repairs was very much
the norm. Many motorists had the practical skills and knowledge
to fix the cars then in use – cars were very much simpler
and more often than not their fathers, uncles, older brothers
or somebody they knew well had taught them those skills –
that was in those days very much the culture amongst the majority
of drivers.
Only people with money, or driving company cars, went to garages,
the majority of which were dealerships charging prices beyond
the pocket of the average working man running a car. It should
also be remembered that the British economy was largely based
on manufacturing, and a much higher proportion of the adult population
had the appropriate practical skills needed to carry out the relatively
rudimentary repairs the cars of the day required.
But the world has changed – in three key ways. Firstly the
skills base in the population these days is far more skewed to
service industries. Secondly modern vehicles are far more complex.
And thirdly, the MOT has changed too.
A More complex MOT
These days, in important areas the MOT Test cannot be mimicked
‘at home’ by the amateur DIY mechanic – he or
she would need a roller brake test machine, a four gas analyser
and if the car has a diesel engine, a diesel smoke meter.
And they do not have the training required to properly decide
that the repair has been carried out satisfactorily.
Ask any MOT Tester and you will be told about cars being returned
for re-Test which fail because the repair (performed by a non-MOT
garage) had not been properly carried out. More often than not
this applies when the repair is done by the owner, or a friend,
or relative ‘in the business’. But it is not unknown
for repairs carried out professionally at repair garages which
are not also Testing Stations, to fail to come ‘up to scratch’,
resulting in a failure on re-Test.
Lacking the Tester’s training, and without the appropriate
MOT equipment they make mistakes, albeit by inadvertence. Perhaps
the brakes are out of balance, or the emissions are still unsatisfactory
(often impossible to fix on modern cars without the appropriate
diagnostic equipment!), and quite frequently that welding job
just wasn’t done in the correct way to comply with the Government’s
strict rules on welding repairs associated with an MOT failure
– and if the Tester is faced with a welding repair covered
in underseal so he just cannot satisfactorily check that it was
done correctly he may ask for the underseal to be removed before
he or she feels able to decide whether or not it is acceptable.
The MOT is primarily about road safety – that’s why
it’s there. So not only will unsatisfactory MOT repairs
cost more in the long run to the individual who will lose time,
and money through an avoidable re-Test failure, the car will be
a threat to road safety whilst being driven to and from the Testing
Station – and, of course, the insurance may also be invalidated
if an unsatisfactory repair effectively renders the vehicle unroadworthy!
Of course, the individual has the right to repair their own vehicle,
and if they have the appropriate skills and access to the correct
equipment to ensure the work has been carried out satisfactorily
that is fine.
But without those skills and equipment they are effectively taking
a chance that it will pass the MOT on re-Test, taking a chance
not only on saving money, but also potentially, with their own
and other people’s safety.
Help
to prevent road deaths – protest against the government's
plans to reduce the frequency of MOT Testing (4-2-2 Testing)
How
to protest to your MP, Protest letter examples
MOT
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